First, an answer to a question: All the hikers here are pilgrims. They have different starting points ( france, Switzerland, most here in Spain), but all are making the pilgrimage.
I don´t always know where I´ll be the next day... I´m planning on about 17km tomorrow. I don´t have my book with me right now, so I´m not sure where that puts me.
Another cool morning with dew on the ground. I follow two men from Italy, I find out down the road a ways that they´re names are Roberto and Hermano. We take turns passing each other all day. We all stop at the same bar/cafe for tea (they have coffee). I get back on the path before they do, but immediately see the effects of the caffiene they have just consumed as they speed by me.
I catch up to them again as they have stopped to eat some apples from a nearby tree.
As we walk together, Roberto tells me that the 100km marker is about 2km ahead and we can take pictures there. I was expecting a grand marker, and walked right by it. Roberto calls me back and we take pictures. Wow, only 100km to go!
I walk on and feel it´s about time for lunch, knowing again that the right spot will be ahead. Sure enough, a stone chair is waiting for me underneath an acorn tree with a view of the hill I have just descended. Seven pilgrims pass me as I eat my lunch (not that I´m counting!)
Cows: Thursday,(my very long day) on two separate occassions, I met farmers herding their cattle up a hill. I´ve never realized how beautiful cows are. Many here, are a beautiful golden brown color and they have the biggest, most gentle looking eyes.
The first encounter was uneventful. I had plenty of room to step aside and let them pass. ( I know who has the right-of-way between me and a cow!) The second encounter was on a very narrow path. I got over as far as I could as the cows were coming up single file. No problem... until one cow decides to get in a hurry and make it a two-lane path. ( I know what you´re thinking; the cows name must have been Terri. I was thinking more along the lines of Alexis!):) We´ll call her Terri Alexis Cow. So, Terri Alexis is coming right at me, horns and all. I have no where to go, I´m up against a rock and dirt wall and her horns are headed straight for my mid-section.
I reach out and guide her horn away from me. I´m so glad she didn´t mind the gentle nudge.
So, as I´m walking today, and thinking about posting this encounter with cows , I look up and what´s coming down the road? More cows! I´m thinking, NOT AGAIN! This time, however, I´m on a paved road wide enough for a car, no sweat. There are several of them, and they are taking the entire road so I just simply move over to the edge, step up slightly and grab a post wrapped with barb wire. I´m thinking, this is so much better... until Terri Alexis sees me.... and starts coming towards me. She has the entire road, but comes at me. She doesn´t just pass by, but slows down and turns her head (with horns) towards me. I´m not sure what to do at this point, which is when Roberto comes to my rescue. He has come up behind me and stands between me and the cow. He hits his walking stick on the ground and she moves on. Meanwhile, Hermano is walking right down the middle of the road, between all the cows. Not something I will try!
I don´t know what the fascination is between cows and me, but I´v had enough encounters with them!
Until next time...
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Friday, October 16, 2009
Triacestela to Sarria
I have a book that counts down the km for me and tells me how many km between each city/village.
Last night I made pasta for me and Terri (Australia), I´m exhausted and go to bed as soon as we finish dinner (9pm).
We have no deadline for being out of the Albergue today so I get up a little later and leave about 8:40. My feet are feeling pretty good-actually the rest of my body is too.. until we hit the first inclines. My legs are completely spent from yesterday´s climbing. I move at a snail´s pace!
Often, you have a choice (I´d rather not have one) as to which path you want to take. Usually, only 2 choices, you don´t make your own way through Spain- at least not until today! I missed a marker somewhere along the way and came to a T in the road. To the right, was Sarria, where I eventually need to be. I go right. It´s a nice road, quiet, fairly level, but no way markers and not a single person in sight. I decide that the road leads to Sarria and there´s no way that I am back tracking.
I wave down a car and ask if this is the Camino. I decipher his Spanish, and decide that if I stay on the road, I will end up where I need to be. About 3km later, someone emerges from the woods ( a pilgrim), crosses the road to a path. Perfect! I´m in the right place, and I think my way was much easier on my feet and knees. I was feeling pretty pleased with myself, even though it was accidental.
I guess you could say I (inadvertantly) took the ¨road less traveled¨.
A new feeling today, probably from pushing the limits yesterday, I took off my pack and literally, felt like I was floating. No kidding!
I didn´t plan on walking all the way to Sarria today and I promise myself that I will make tomorrow a shorter day.
Until next time...
Last night I made pasta for me and Terri (Australia), I´m exhausted and go to bed as soon as we finish dinner (9pm).
We have no deadline for being out of the Albergue today so I get up a little later and leave about 8:40. My feet are feeling pretty good-actually the rest of my body is too.. until we hit the first inclines. My legs are completely spent from yesterday´s climbing. I move at a snail´s pace!
Often, you have a choice (I´d rather not have one) as to which path you want to take. Usually, only 2 choices, you don´t make your own way through Spain- at least not until today! I missed a marker somewhere along the way and came to a T in the road. To the right, was Sarria, where I eventually need to be. I go right. It´s a nice road, quiet, fairly level, but no way markers and not a single person in sight. I decide that the road leads to Sarria and there´s no way that I am back tracking.
I wave down a car and ask if this is the Camino. I decipher his Spanish, and decide that if I stay on the road, I will end up where I need to be. About 3km later, someone emerges from the woods ( a pilgrim), crosses the road to a path. Perfect! I´m in the right place, and I think my way was much easier on my feet and knees. I was feeling pretty pleased with myself, even though it was accidental.
I guess you could say I (inadvertantly) took the ¨road less traveled¨.
A new feeling today, probably from pushing the limits yesterday, I took off my pack and literally, felt like I was floating. No kidding!
I didn´t plan on walking all the way to Sarria today and I promise myself that I will make tomorrow a shorter day.
Until next time...
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Vega de valcarce to Triacestelo- 33km( OUCH)
I have newfound energy after a great nights rest in my own bed, no sounds all night ( not the slightest hint of snoring). I feel that I could wakk forever today. Cold again, but I warm up quickly as I start walking.
Today, as I put on my pack, I start thinking about all the weight I am carrying. It´s much heavier than when I started. I´ve add a few essentials, like food and hair conditioner. I carry this pack ( burden) every day, and it´s to the point that I don´t notice it that much. Sure, sometimes it gets uncomfortable, or I get numb across my hip, but then I just adjust it and it feels okay again. Almost like another appendage that belongs on my body. I´ve even added some foam sponges to the front to make it more comfortable.
In life, too, we carry burdens, baggage ( whatever you want to call it). We get used to it, think we can´t put it down, even make adjustments to make it more comfortable. Pretty crazy when you think about it!
In all actuality, I could do this trip with only my passport, money and clothes on my back. I´m sure I´d clear out a few Albergues-they might smell me coming... but it could be done.
And so, life, can be done without the burdens ( from the past or the ones we accumulate on a daily basis). It´s just figuring out how to put them down, and not pick them back up again. You may think you don´t have any of those burdens, maybe you´ve just gotten used to carrying them, and you don´t notice anymore.
Wow! lots of climbing today, the inclines never stop and I don´t want to, for fear of losing my momentum.
I get to the top , pass a stream and see a shirt, jacket and pants on a rock drying in the sun. No one in sight, not even a pack. He must be in the bushes, waiting for his clothes to dry watching me pass by.
More and more climbing... I hear panting ( lamaz breathing) coming up behind me on this never-ending hill. I´m not sure if someone is climbing or having a baby! He finally passes me- I guess lamaze (sp?) isn´t just for birthing anymore!
Sorry for the long post, but it was a 33km day! I really didn´t plan it that way, thought it was more like 28. Those who know me, know that math is not my strong point!
I could keep going, but won´´t, I´m absolutely beat. That will be my last 33km day!
Until next time...
Today, as I put on my pack, I start thinking about all the weight I am carrying. It´s much heavier than when I started. I´ve add a few essentials, like food and hair conditioner. I carry this pack ( burden) every day, and it´s to the point that I don´t notice it that much. Sure, sometimes it gets uncomfortable, or I get numb across my hip, but then I just adjust it and it feels okay again. Almost like another appendage that belongs on my body. I´ve even added some foam sponges to the front to make it more comfortable.
In life, too, we carry burdens, baggage ( whatever you want to call it). We get used to it, think we can´t put it down, even make adjustments to make it more comfortable. Pretty crazy when you think about it!
In all actuality, I could do this trip with only my passport, money and clothes on my back. I´m sure I´d clear out a few Albergues-they might smell me coming... but it could be done.
And so, life, can be done without the burdens ( from the past or the ones we accumulate on a daily basis). It´s just figuring out how to put them down, and not pick them back up again. You may think you don´t have any of those burdens, maybe you´ve just gotten used to carrying them, and you don´t notice anymore.
Wow! lots of climbing today, the inclines never stop and I don´t want to, for fear of losing my momentum.
I get to the top , pass a stream and see a shirt, jacket and pants on a rock drying in the sun. No one in sight, not even a pack. He must be in the bushes, waiting for his clothes to dry watching me pass by.
More and more climbing... I hear panting ( lamaz breathing) coming up behind me on this never-ending hill. I´m not sure if someone is climbing or having a baby! He finally passes me- I guess lamaze (sp?) isn´t just for birthing anymore!
Sorry for the long post, but it was a 33km day! I really didn´t plan it that way, thought it was more like 28. Those who know me, know that math is not my strong point!
I could keep going, but won´´t, I´m absolutely beat. That will be my last 33km day!
Until next time...
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Casebelos to Vega de Valcarce
First, an answer to Georgeann´s question. I am not carring a laptop. Most Albergues have internet access. 20-30 min for 1 euro. Today, however, I am staying in a private place with my own room! I´m at an information center- using the internet for free! Typical Spain though, the sign said open at 4pm. Someone came to let me in to the computer room at 4:50. ( after he was called here by the janitor)
Last night was very cold, the room had no heat. Finally at 1a.m., I gave in and grabbed the blanket provided by the albergue to use as a second covering. Hopefully it is free of bedbugs! Several people have already been introduced to them. So far, I have not, and want to keep it that way!
It´s another cold morning and I leave my fleece on till afternoon. I actually prefer the cold to heat. The walk begins with several steep climbs up rocky dirt roads. At one point, I think I´ll never get to the top of the hill, especially when I set my sights there. So, I look down at the road and just take one step at a time and I finally reach the top. I actually prefer the ascents to the descents, it´s easier on my feet.
After the city of Villa Franca, I start walking up and through the mountain pass. It´s amazing to see the mountains around you, and know that after a while you will have walked through and over them. The mountains go straight up on both sides, I feel very small and insignificant. It´s very quiet, with a stream to my left most of the day, that I can hear, but not always see.
I have chosen the slightly higer mountain route today. It´s a beautiful and quiet walk, but slightly longer and more strenuous- I still enjoy it.
I walk with no particular destination in mind today, just until I decide to stop. I´m not sure where Sally and Katie end up today. I end up walking 26.5 km, I don´t think they have gone that far. I decide to stay in a place with a private room. My own bed and shower across the hall- complete with toilet paper! I can even sit up on my bed without hitting my head on a bunk above me. Simple pleasures!
Until next time...
Last night was very cold, the room had no heat. Finally at 1a.m., I gave in and grabbed the blanket provided by the albergue to use as a second covering. Hopefully it is free of bedbugs! Several people have already been introduced to them. So far, I have not, and want to keep it that way!
It´s another cold morning and I leave my fleece on till afternoon. I actually prefer the cold to heat. The walk begins with several steep climbs up rocky dirt roads. At one point, I think I´ll never get to the top of the hill, especially when I set my sights there. So, I look down at the road and just take one step at a time and I finally reach the top. I actually prefer the ascents to the descents, it´s easier on my feet.
After the city of Villa Franca, I start walking up and through the mountain pass. It´s amazing to see the mountains around you, and know that after a while you will have walked through and over them. The mountains go straight up on both sides, I feel very small and insignificant. It´s very quiet, with a stream to my left most of the day, that I can hear, but not always see.
I have chosen the slightly higer mountain route today. It´s a beautiful and quiet walk, but slightly longer and more strenuous- I still enjoy it.
I walk with no particular destination in mind today, just until I decide to stop. I´m not sure where Sally and Katie end up today. I end up walking 26.5 km, I don´t think they have gone that far. I decide to stay in a place with a private room. My own bed and shower across the hall- complete with toilet paper! I can even sit up on my bed without hitting my head on a bunk above me. Simple pleasures!
Until next time...
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Moleneseca to Casabelos
It´s dark this morning, moon shining brightly, as we leave the Albergue (7:50). It´s cold outside too, the first day I need to wear my gloves.
The walk to Ponferada (8km) goes quickly. The city is in a valley surrounded by mountains. As I begin the descent into the valley I witness the the distant mountains slowly being painted orange by the rising sun. Beautiful!
Once in the city center, we stop into a cafe for pastries and tea ( breakfast). We are warmed up again and continue on the day´s journey. It isn´t long before I am ahead of Sally and Katie. The walk, so far, has been fairly level so it goes quickly.
At 11:45 I am walking through Fuentes Nuevas and roosters are crowing as I am walking down a quiet road. I thought they did that at sunrise. I decide they must be teenage roosters!
In Componaraya I stop at a cash machine and then a market for a chocolate bar.Cash and chocolate, what more do you need?
It´s 12:30 and my feet are telling me that I need a break- I´m well out of town, and something tells me that further down the path there is a bench to sit, have lunch, rest my feet and write in my journal. Sure enough, 40 minutes later, there it is. It´s peaceful as I eat my lunch and a few pilgrims pass (some that I´have just met in the last couple of days).
I arrive at the Alberbue after 23km of walking, more than ready to stop for the day. The rooms are built in a semi-circle around the church- two beds per room. It was a nice surprise to come back from my shower and see Katie ( Austraila) as my bunk mate.
The Albergue has no kitchen, so it looks like we´ll be going out ( later than I like- nothing opens back up till seven).
I think it will be another chilly day tomorrow and much more climbing.
Until next time...
The walk to Ponferada (8km) goes quickly. The city is in a valley surrounded by mountains. As I begin the descent into the valley I witness the the distant mountains slowly being painted orange by the rising sun. Beautiful!
Once in the city center, we stop into a cafe for pastries and tea ( breakfast). We are warmed up again and continue on the day´s journey. It isn´t long before I am ahead of Sally and Katie. The walk, so far, has been fairly level so it goes quickly.
At 11:45 I am walking through Fuentes Nuevas and roosters are crowing as I am walking down a quiet road. I thought they did that at sunrise. I decide they must be teenage roosters!
In Componaraya I stop at a cash machine and then a market for a chocolate bar.Cash and chocolate, what more do you need?
It´s 12:30 and my feet are telling me that I need a break- I´m well out of town, and something tells me that further down the path there is a bench to sit, have lunch, rest my feet and write in my journal. Sure enough, 40 minutes later, there it is. It´s peaceful as I eat my lunch and a few pilgrims pass (some that I´have just met in the last couple of days).
I arrive at the Alberbue after 23km of walking, more than ready to stop for the day. The rooms are built in a semi-circle around the church- two beds per room. It was a nice surprise to come back from my shower and see Katie ( Austraila) as my bunk mate.
The Albergue has no kitchen, so it looks like we´ll be going out ( later than I like- nothing opens back up till seven).
I think it will be another chilly day tomorrow and much more climbing.
Until next time...
Monday, October 12, 2009
Rabanal to Molinaseca
Thank you for your many comments and good wishes. No falls today, however I met bob from Canada who took a fall and another woman left in a taxi (as we were resting in a small town) to her next Albergue ( because of a fall).
We left this morning early since it was going to be a long day (7:30) It´s another beautiful day, clear blue sky, no clouds. I have slowed my pace today, and I guess you could say I´m so far behing Sally and Katie, that I´m ahead of them. :)
The path narrows in places for only one person to travel ( this is where Bob falls). There are shrubs on both side, very peaceful and quiet. I hear birds and the sound of my own feet hitting the dirt, nothing else.
About 11/2 hours after walking I take a short break ( people pass me and it´s okay).
I keep hearing voices below me, there must be a road, but I can´t see it. The voices are sounding familiar, I´m pretty sure it´s the three Amigas ( they never stop talking)! Sure enough, they emerge from the road and join me on the path and I soon pass them.
I stop again for almost 30 minutes and wait for Sally and Katie to catch up. I´m am at the highest point of the Camino (4970 ft). It´s a great place for a picture with my newly found friends. We travel on and the descent is very steep, but the toughest part about it is how rocky it is. I´m moving very slowy and deliberately, this is not a place I want to fall. I make it through without even a stumble and am grateful.
We arrive in a small village, Reijo de Ambros, and check in to the Albergue. There are four of us. Sally, katie, me and another Katie ( from Austraila). It doesn´t take us long to decide that the Albergue is not in good shape. I take one look at the shower and know theré is no way I will stay. Only one problem. It´s another 6km to the next town and it´s already after 3pm. We´ve been walking since 7:30. So, we walk up to the local bar, get a drink and call a taxi. Not one of us feels one bit guilty either!
This Albergue is very clean, wonderful. I´m anticipating a good nights rest.
Until next time...
We left this morning early since it was going to be a long day (7:30) It´s another beautiful day, clear blue sky, no clouds. I have slowed my pace today, and I guess you could say I´m so far behing Sally and Katie, that I´m ahead of them. :)
The path narrows in places for only one person to travel ( this is where Bob falls). There are shrubs on both side, very peaceful and quiet. I hear birds and the sound of my own feet hitting the dirt, nothing else.
About 11/2 hours after walking I take a short break ( people pass me and it´s okay).
I keep hearing voices below me, there must be a road, but I can´t see it. The voices are sounding familiar, I´m pretty sure it´s the three Amigas ( they never stop talking)! Sure enough, they emerge from the road and join me on the path and I soon pass them.
I stop again for almost 30 minutes and wait for Sally and Katie to catch up. I´m am at the highest point of the Camino (4970 ft). It´s a great place for a picture with my newly found friends. We travel on and the descent is very steep, but the toughest part about it is how rocky it is. I´m moving very slowy and deliberately, this is not a place I want to fall. I make it through without even a stumble and am grateful.
We arrive in a small village, Reijo de Ambros, and check in to the Albergue. There are four of us. Sally, katie, me and another Katie ( from Austraila). It doesn´t take us long to decide that the Albergue is not in good shape. I take one look at the shower and know theré is no way I will stay. Only one problem. It´s another 6km to the next town and it´s already after 3pm. We´ve been walking since 7:30. So, we walk up to the local bar, get a drink and call a taxi. Not one of us feels one bit guilty either!
This Albergue is very clean, wonderful. I´m anticipating a good nights rest.
Until next time...
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Astorga to Rabanal and a few stumbles
Pizza again last night (sat) for dinnner, this time I remember to bring it along for my lunch. The Albergue´s each have a closing time in the morning, anywhere from 7:30 to 9 in the morning. Most are by 8.
I meet Franchesca, Susan and Semolita (I refer to them now as the 3 amigas)in the kitchen this morining, they are about to leave and I am having tea, it´s 7am. Franchesca continues her dialogue with me as if I understand everything she says. I always pass them on the way each morning even though they leave an hour before me.
Ít´s another beautiful day walking. I´ts Sunday, so I spend much of the time walking thinking about all the ways to worship God (Not just meeting in a church building).
The walk is most enjoyable and I´m wondering what it is I am to learn today-maybe, just to enjoy the day!
I walk 3 hours and have told myself that I must stop and eat, but have not found a good place yet. I also still have this mentality that if I stop, people will pass me ( I don´t know why that matters ). Finally I find a spot under some pine trees-nice and cool. Twenty minutes later I´m on my way again. I soon see a sign for Rabanal that says 2.2km. It´s the steepest climb of the day, very rocky. My legs are tired, and I´m careful with my steps, but catch the corner of a few rocks with my boot. One too many, and I go down. It´s steep, so I catch myself and don´t fall too far.
The rocks taper off, but now there are tree roots everywhere, and some hidden by brush growing in the path- I stumble again and think I have slowed my pace, but not enough. Again, I catch my boot on a hidden stump and go down hard and fast with the weight of my pack. I cannot move. Two pilgrims rush to my aide- one ahead of me comes running back, and one behind me runs as well. It takes both of them to get me on my feet again. They don´t speak English, but I think I convey that I am fine, only a few broken blood vessels in my hand.
So, my lesson for the day has come, but it takes two spills for me to get it!
We think that we determine our pace, but sometimes the path determines it for us. I thought I was moving slowly and carefully enough. Even after stumbling a few times I slowed down even more, not enough ,I guess.
So, for tomorrow, ( this will be a challenge) I have decided to follow Sally and Katie. They usually come into town about 1 1/2 to 2 hours after me. We´ll see what the day brings! I wonder how much more enjoyable life would be if we would just slow down from time to time.
Until next time...
I meet Franchesca, Susan and Semolita (I refer to them now as the 3 amigas)in the kitchen this morining, they are about to leave and I am having tea, it´s 7am. Franchesca continues her dialogue with me as if I understand everything she says. I always pass them on the way each morning even though they leave an hour before me.
Ít´s another beautiful day walking. I´ts Sunday, so I spend much of the time walking thinking about all the ways to worship God (Not just meeting in a church building).
The walk is most enjoyable and I´m wondering what it is I am to learn today-maybe, just to enjoy the day!
I walk 3 hours and have told myself that I must stop and eat, but have not found a good place yet. I also still have this mentality that if I stop, people will pass me ( I don´t know why that matters ). Finally I find a spot under some pine trees-nice and cool. Twenty minutes later I´m on my way again. I soon see a sign for Rabanal that says 2.2km. It´s the steepest climb of the day, very rocky. My legs are tired, and I´m careful with my steps, but catch the corner of a few rocks with my boot. One too many, and I go down. It´s steep, so I catch myself and don´t fall too far.
The rocks taper off, but now there are tree roots everywhere, and some hidden by brush growing in the path- I stumble again and think I have slowed my pace, but not enough. Again, I catch my boot on a hidden stump and go down hard and fast with the weight of my pack. I cannot move. Two pilgrims rush to my aide- one ahead of me comes running back, and one behind me runs as well. It takes both of them to get me on my feet again. They don´t speak English, but I think I convey that I am fine, only a few broken blood vessels in my hand.
So, my lesson for the day has come, but it takes two spills for me to get it!
We think that we determine our pace, but sometimes the path determines it for us. I thought I was moving slowly and carefully enough. Even after stumbling a few times I slowed down even more, not enough ,I guess.
So, for tomorrow, ( this will be a challenge) I have decided to follow Sally and Katie. They usually come into town about 1 1/2 to 2 hours after me. We´ll see what the day brings! I wonder how much more enjoyable life would be if we would just slow down from time to time.
Until next time...
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